Showing posts with label Architecture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Architecture. Show all posts

Thursday, September 25, 2014

Trip To Aihole (Historic Details) by Blazerguns



Huchchimalli Gudi (Happymonger. Wordpres)
Durga Temple (Happymonger. Wordpres)
Trip To Aihole (Historic Details) by blazerguns posted on Jun 6th, 2011.

http://www.indiamike.com/india/karnataka-f38/trip-to-aihole-historic-details-t137098/

I find a lots of post on Aihole, so i decided not to make this "yet another travelogue". This is my experience in Aihole with historic details for the history buffs. The whole idea is for the future travelers to avoid hiring guides (as they are not correct or atleast not so well informed). This my first humble attempt and i hope to get some feedback.

Historic Details Of Aihole:

There is always this feeling I get. When I go to an ancient place. The feeling of déjà-vu. Aihole made me ‘relive’ my king days. Yes, you heard it right. As a thick blanket of dust engulfed the road I travelled to reach this little village Aihole, I couldn’t help but get perplexed at the importance this place demands as being the prototype of ancient temple architecture in the country. Now to the ‘king’ feeling! At the sight of my car entering the village, a horde of little children came running behind the car. A brief moment of stolen smugness engulfed me as I wonder if the great Chalukyan king Pulikesi would have been greeted the same way, with small hands waving and shrill voices praising him. Then of course, reality in the form of logic shatters my delusion when I learned that the children were only following the car to return a piece of metal that fell off it. With the noise of kids fighting over a candy bar fading away, I entered the first temple Huchchimalli Gudi, as a commoner.

Facts about Huchchimalli Gudi:

This temple has a spire built in the style resembling those of the north but its details are more archaic that the other modern temples of Aihole. On the porch ceilings are a group of sculptures representing Karthikeya (Muruga, known to Tamils) seated on his peacock (his vehicle) with a lance (spear) in his right hand and a flower in his left. Karthikeya, the six-headed deity in Hinduism, is the god of war who led the early Chalukyas and the Kadambas of Banavasi to victory.

Kartikeya - Seated upon his Peacock, with a lane in his right hand a flower in his left. Attendents figure which surround him, make offerings while a prostrate figure with a sheild and dagger lies beneth the Peacocks feet

Karthikeya, a god of prime importance in South India occupied a central position with the Chalukyan dynasty too. While many archaeologists point out their religious leanings to indicate that Chalukyans were local kings and not from the north, many others believe that their worship of Karthikeya can be borrowed from the Kadambas who ruled Karnatake much before.

My next destination was the well-known Durga temple that I had a chance to visit without the disturbing noises of other tourists. The unique U-shaped temple hosts exquisite wall carvings that can be admired even from a distance. With the sunlight beaming off the reddish walls of the temple, a mystic silent feeling surrounds me. The temple architecture that proved that this temple was newer than Huchchimalli Gudi had daemon engravings looking more like Roman pagan gods than Indian ones. Great care has been taken to decorate the ornaments of sculptures of dancers around the central shrine.

Facts about the Durga Temple:

Of the temples with Northern Sikharas, the Durga temple and Papanatha at Pattadakal stand out. The construction of the temple is very similar to the Cave XXVI at Ajanta. A carving of Garuda (vehicle for Vishnu) is seen above the shrine door. The doorway resembles the style of the Viharas at Ajanta. The hallway is surrounded by images of Narasimha, Mahisasura, Varaha, Vishnu, Ardhanari and Shiva, but the main form of worship is dedicated to Vaishnavism, possibly to Surya Narayana.

Garuda - Presides above the shrine door where he grasps in his two hands the serpent tail of Nagas whose upturned human bodies are a little way down the jambs on either side

In order to go about visiting temples in order of their similarity, I stepped out of the complex to visit another not-so-grand temple complex, the Mallikarjuna complex. The five shrine complexes, perhaps from the 8th century A.D is an array of stones piled up to create a structure. The shrines that were plain and simple, resembled Jain temples.

Walking further down, I entered a little temple called as the Gauri temple, the name perhaps has something to do with two female images in the mantapa. As I weave my way into the dark and dingy place, I chide myself for not carrying a torch, as I was unable to check the identity of the two female sculptures.

Around the bend, are a group of Jain temples. I was not able to differentiate between this group of temples and the Mallikarjuna temples. They looked exactly similar to me except the fact that this Jain group of temples had in its central Garbhagriha a Parshwanatha, seated with five lions flanking him. Since Jainism was immensely popular during the Chalukyan times, I wonder if they made prototypes of temples similar to avoid partiality towards one religion.

While I wonder the strangeness behind the name Kont Gudi for the temple, I came to know that the name of the temple is derived from the last occupant of the building in residence. The man who lived there last used to carry the Trisula of Siva to the village boundary at the time of Dasara festival. While the prospect of actually living at a prototype temple baffles me, like any other man I start to wonder where the kitchen is.

Facts About Kont Gudi:

The flat ceiling at the inside of the temple is an Ashtadikpala one-it is divided into nine panels. Brahma is at the centre surrounded by images of eight regents. The temple again is originally Vaishnavite as indicated by the wings-spread Garuda at the top on the shrine door. The temple seems a little more advanced than that of Lad Khan but not as advanced as Badami caves. Within the temple, placed against a pillar is an inscribed slab containing a record of temple construction.

It begins with an invocation to Lord Siva. This must have been engraved during the time of Basava, the founder of the Lingayat Sect and may possibly be connected with the conversion of their use of some of old temples here. The temple besides Kont Gudi has three central bays of ceilings in front of the shrine and a finely carved image slab. The carvings represent Siva, Vishnu upon Sesha and Brahma.

After asking around for the oldest temple in Aihole, I was pointed to yet another strange temple by the name Lad Khan. The name “Lad Khan” is the name of a Muslim man who not so long ago occupied the building. Seems like all I have to do to get a temple named after me is occupy it! Wondering whether my boss will allow me work from temple, read home, I walk towards another ancient site. This temple, perhaps more than any other, clearly shows that has been converted into stone from wood. The ancient temples were build using wood and would soon get spoilt. This is perhaps the fist effort to convert them into stone temples by retaining the design. This is quite evident from the long cylindrical blocks carved out of stone.

Facts About Lad Khan:

The very unusual position of the shrine which is placed within the great hall, against the back wall has a primitive air about it. While it can be concluded that this temple is much older than Meguti, it is not possible to specify a date. The Cave III at Badami is distinctly advanced in terms of style. The pillars that are characteristic of the temple are massive and more suited to support the heavy rocks in cave cuttings. On the extreme south pillar of the facade is a female standing on a tortoise which is intended to represent the river goddess Yamuna. On the north end is the goddess Ganga on her Makara. Upon the dedicatory block over the shrine door is Garuda, the vehicle of Vishnu. This is a Vaishnava temple as we know the early kings of Western Chalukyas dynasty were of the Vishnu cult. Within the shrine, has been placed in later times a Linga and before it in the center of the hall a large Nandi (Bull).

A water pot found on the porch is often connected with the traditional origin of Chalukyas. However it can be ruled out as such water pot artifacts are found in the Rashtrakuta Caves at Ellora. It is not confined to any particular religious sect for we find it both on Brahminical and Jaina temples.

Saving for the last is Meguti temple. It took a while to locate this temple as it was located on a hill top. In fact the name is derived from “Megudi” meaning temple that is above. Not heeding to a kid’s solemn advice of the lack of anything interesting in the temple, I climb the hill. I was more curious about the ISI report which points to Dolmens found near the temple. To my disappointment there was a badly managed temple and no Dolmens were found.

Facts About Meguti:

Inscriptions on eastern side suggests that it was built around AD 634 by a certain RaviKriti during the reign of the Western Chalukyan King Pulikesin II. The temple represents Dravidian architecture. The rubble on the roof appears to have been built up in very late times to form a barricade against missiles and to concert it to a small stronghold or watch tower.

This article is taken from my blog http://hobbymonger.wordpress.com/201...ole-karnataka/

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Hampi. Wikitravel


Hampi Panoramic View (Wikitravel)

Hampi (Wikitravel)

Understand

"Hampi" was the capital of Vijayanagar, a 14th century empire. The ruins of this imperial capital are spread out over an area of 26km². "A Forgotten Empire" (ISBN 1419101250) by Robert Sewell is an interesting book which describes the rise and fall of the Vijayanagar empire. Before the fall of Vijayanagar, diamonds were sold on the streets, but the main street selling diamonds and other precious stones was surprisingly called Pan Supaari Street (translated in English, it means betel-leaf betel-nut street). A visitor can still see the exact location of Pan Supaari Street in Hampi, which has been marked with a board by the Archaeological Survey of India.

Hampi is well worth the visit. The area is simply stunning and you will be in awe of the millions of boulders surrounding the area. Within this arid landscape lies a little oasis with lush palm, banana, and mango trees nestled near the river.

Hampi is a great place to spend a few days wandering around and discovering the rich, vibrant history while also having a bit of 'your' time.

Hampi hosts Hampi Utsav every year during first week of November. It is a visual delight as all the monuments/ruins are lit at night and it is a cultural extravaganza of dance and music. 2010 marked 500 years since the Vijayanagar king Sri Krishnadevaraya ascended to the throne.

Hampi Panoramic View (Wikitravel)

Get in

The nearest airport is at Hubli, 143km away from Hampi. Flying from Goa means that you have to change planes in Mumbai (or Bengaluru), making it an expensive and time consuming trip, and therefore useless.

By train

The nearest railway station is Hospet Junction (IR station code: HPT), 13km away.

Overnight trains run several times a week from Bangalore, Hyderabad and Goa. The trains are a much cheaper and more comfortable route than the tourist buses most people are led into. (2nd class air-con - bed with linen - costs ₹750 from Bangalore to Hampi). You can also catch an overnight train from Mysore to Hubli and from there to Hospet/Hampi. You can also get an overnight train, the Hampi Express, direct from Mysore to Hospet Junction. It departs Mysore at 6:15pm and is scheduled to arrive at 7:45 the next morning.

Here are some useful trains to get into Hampi: 


Train Number Train Name You may board at You may alight at
16592 Hampi Express Bangalore City 22:00, (Bangalore) Hospet Junction 07:50
18048 Amaravathi Express Vasco da Gama,Margao Junction Hospet Junction
17603 Kacheguda Express (Slip Route) Kacheguda (Hyderabad) Hospet Junction
17003 KOP-HYD Express (Slip Route) Hyderabad Hospet Junction

From Hospet it's convenient to take a rickshaw to Hampi (₹80-120). Rickshaw drivers can be persistent and will poke their heads in the train before you even get off, but they may very well be the best option. Buses to Hampi are cheaper. It's about a kilometre and a half walk from the train station to the bus station. Take an Auto-rickshaw up to bus-stand (₹5 per head) and you can easily get frequent government buses for Hampi (₹17 per head). 

Hampi View (Wikitravel)
By car

Bangalore: 350km. Drive till Chitradurga on NH-4, take a right turn on NH-13 towards Sholapur till Hospet, and then drive another 13km to reach Hampi (direction towards Hampi is well marked). The road is in excellent condition till Chitradurga but then deteriorates rapidly. You are also likely to encounter traffic jams due to ore-laden trucks plying on NH-13.

Hubli: 150km

Hospet: 13km

Hyderabad: 360km. Take NH-7 till Jadcharla X-Road, turn right towards Mahboobnagar and carry on till Raichur. From Raichur, take Karnataka State Highway 20 towards Lingasugar, turn left at 10km after Raichur onto Karnataka State Highway 23 to Sindhanoor. The road on the last 15-25km stretch, after Gangavati, is not so bad. Lots of speed breakers in Karnataka. The 5-10km stretch just before the Andhra Pradesh - Karnataka States Border on Andhra Pradesh side is full of potholes.

Mumbai: About 800km or less: take NH-4 upto hubli & then go via Gadag-hospet. Alternately, take NH-4, exit to Sangli/Miraj, Go to Athni -Bijapur. (Donot take short cuts as roads are real bad.). You may choose to see Badami, Pattadakkal, Aihole as a 2 day add on excursion, else proceed to Hampi next day. Roads are average except speedbarkers combined with potholes and heavy traffic of large trucks. (Strictly avoid night driving). Prefer high ground clearance cars on this roads.

By bus

Karnataka State Road Transport Corporation operates daily buses to Hospet from Bangalore, Mysore and Gokarna. From Hospet you can go to Hampi on a local bus for ₹20. Book your tickets in advance if you want a coach or an air-con service, because the number of travellers is large (given that the place is very famous with foreigners) and the frequency of buses is less.

There are private bus companies operating from most places in Goa and from Gokarna which run an overnight service to Hampi. Unfortunately, there is no direct return so you take a local bus (or taxi) to Hospet and take it from there.

Hampi (Wikitravel)
Get around

The real pleasure in exploring Hampi comes from being on a bicycle or by walking around. Virtually every rock in Hampi has a story to say. This story is best heard if you give it time and walk around from rock to rock.

By bicycle

Bicycle is the best way to explore Hampi if you enjoy history, culture and nature. It usually costs about ₹60/day. Helmet and lock is included in the price. A little bit of walking is always required for exploring sites inside and out.

Another more convenient variant to see all the sights without climbing the hills is by Rikshaw. Bargain with your Rikshaw driver for a fixed rate (₹600-700 for a full day seems to be okay [Mar 2014]) and then hire an official Karnataka Travel guide (at the tourist office, they have fixed rates: 4h = ₹500, 8h = ₹800). It costs a little bit, but the explanations help you to see more then just stones and temples. To get an estimate of cost/content, you can talk to the guides before coming down to Hampi. The guides willingly share their cellular numbers and email addresses.

By motorcycle

It is very hot! Dry, dry heat. And the walk between some sites can be at least 5km. Plus, the surrounding area is quite breathtaking to ride around and you can explore some parts that the rickshaws won't take you. Guides are willing to ride on the back with you as well. This is a more expensive option than the rickshaw (not for the thrifty!) but it gives you more freedom and you can cover more in one day without rushing it. Take a guide with you one day, then do it all again by yourself the next. A bike like a scooty or kinetic Honda will cost you about ₹150 a day with additional fuel charges. You can also hire a 100cc motor bike for ₹200 a day. A litre of petrol will be sufficient for sight seeing around Hampi, but two litres would be handy if you have plans to go to Tungabadra Dam (some 15km from Hampi).

When renting a scooters/motor bikes petrol costs extra, and normally sold at 40-50% premium in the place you rent (a litre costs ₹100, Apr 2013). A petrol pump is located in Kamalapur, which sells petrol at ordinary price. Two litres will get you to the major sites around Royal Centre and back, but three litres is a safer option. The countryside is a beautiful place for a leisurely drive so it's worth taking lots of fuel.

Tungabhadra Dam (Wikitravel)
By car

Various Car Rentals are available in Hospet. They normally charge ₹750 to ₹1,000 for a day's sightseeing and pick up/drop off at railway station etc. There are several car rental companies in Hampi/Hospet including some prominent ones like SRB Travels, Zoomcar.in etc. Car rentals are also available from various rail heads and airports near by like Bangalore, Goa, Hyderabad, Belgaum to Hampi.

The ruins of Hampi are located within a 30km² area. While most of the famous places have motorable roads leading up to them.

Hampi Art (Wikitravel)
By boat

Most of the guest houses are on other side of the river (area called Virupapur Gadde). To access them, you need to cross river by Motor boat (₹10 for locals, ₹15 for tourists, boat runs until 18:00. If you cannot get on the boat, you have to pay auto ₹500-600 to take you other side via Hospet-Hugili- Hanumanhalli, which is a 40km tour. During moderate/high rains, the gates of Tungbhadra dam are opened which increases the water level and water flow in the river. In that case, you might get stranded on the other side of the river (Virupapur Gadde area)

See

Hampi is a visual delight, especially due to its stark contrast from most other places. Rocks are all you see whichever direction you look at. Vegetation is visible in the wet months; but again it never dominates the landscape. It is an ideal spot for people who are interested in history and/or nature.

There are many sites of interest in and around Hampi. The must-visits are Virupaksha Temple, Hampi Bazaar, Monolith Bull, Lakshmi Narasimha temple, Hemakuta Hill temples, Big Shivlinga, Vithala Temple (the famous Stone Chariot is located here), Hazara Rama Temple, Royal Enclosures, Queen's Bath, Zanana Enclosure (which also houses the Lotus Mahal), Elephant Stables, Achyut Raya temple, Statue of Lakshmi Narasimha (often mistaken for Ugra Narasimha - fiery form of Vishnu) owing to the damage suffered by this monolithic statue, Virupaksha Temple, Mahanavmi Dibba, the Stepped Bath and the Matanga Hill (from where one can see the most beautiful sun set ever). All these places are towards Hampi Bus Stand area and you don't need to cross the river.

You can buy a local map costing ₹15, and cover all the places on your own taking a hired bike/scooty. Otherwise, you can hire a car to do local sightseeing. It would cost you about ₹400-500.

Tungbhadra dam is another 16km from Hampi and it is towards Hospet. Hence, if you have plans to catch your train/bus back from Hospet, you could see Tungbhadra dam and return from Hospet. It takes around 45min to 1h to see Tungbhadra dam. You need to park your vehicles at the entrance and take Govt bus to the top and return. It takes ₹20 for to and fro.

There are also several "Shivalings" along the river which the boatman will guide you to. The old capital called Anegundi, across the river from Hampi also has many sites. You can also go to Anegundi from Virupapur gadde by road. There is a road alongside old broken bridge (Bukka's Aqueduct). The Hanuman Temple on Anjenaya Hill (involves climbing up 572 steps, is believed to be the birth place of Hanuman) and the Pampa Sarovar are worth a visit. Both of these places are around 7-8km from Old broken bridge.

There is Daroji bear sanctuary around 16km from Hampi, opposite side of Kamalapura/Hospet. It opens 13:00-18:00 Not a must see but you can go there for a nice drive/ride if you have some time to kill.

To do justice to all the sites, you need a minimum of 3 full days of sight seeing. To discover all the ruins, it may take much more than 3 days - perhaps months.

Do
Outdoor Activities
  1. A good amount of walking is a must, as the ruins are scattered over a huge area. Moped/bicycle hire is a good option to move around.
  2. Cross the river by one of those coracle ferry. If you can not swim, ensure that the coracle is not overcrowded. Your life is at stake. As of March 2013, the cost is ₹10 per person and ₹5 for each piece of luggage. The other side of the river (Anegondi) spots a number of pre Vijayanagara relics.
  3. If coming in April to September time (off season) do check with the hotel for bookings especially if you plan to stay on Anegondi side of the river. Except a few prominent ones (e.g. Shanthi Guest House, Mowgli Guest House etc), the other guest houses and restaurants close down.
  4. If you go there in Jun-August, you will not find coracle ferry in action, the river is usually very high then, so if you want to go Anegondi you have to travel c. 40km, I don't think you will like Anegondi after Hampi, actually there is nothing to see except the Hanuman temple on Anjana hill, but be prepare for a climb of about 600 steps.
  5. If you are staying at Virupapur Gadde side of the river, plan and return by 6'o clock. If you have a train/bus to catch in the night, checking out before 6'o clock in the evening helps. If the ferry closes, the auto/car option becomes a much longer and costlier affair.
  6. Rockclimbers frequently visit Hampi to scale the boulders and can often be seen around with their crashpads, mostly on the Virupapura Gaddi side of the river.
  7. Wildlife - The occasional crocodile may be encountered in the river or on rocks midstream, sometimes several metres long.
  8. Leopards frequent some of the rocky hills, sometimes not too far from human habitation, and may venture out at night to prey on dogs or the odd goat. *Sloth bears are not only confined to Daroji sanctuary, but may wander the sugar cane fields at night. They can be dangerous when encountered with cubs in tow.
  9. As many as 185 species of bird can be identified at various times of the year in the Hampi environs.
Volunteer

Hampi Children Trust takes care of 38 children with studies, food (all 3 meals, seven days a week) and medical care. Some children live in-house while others stay in the locality. Spend time with the children on scheduled picnics every Saturday from 15:00 to 18:00. Their language teacher, Chidu, takes them to a pre-designated area (the river area, Matunga Hill, etc) where the children let their wild streak take over. Set up by a Britisher, Tim and local Kalidas. See their neat classroom with weekly responsibilities laid out for each child for the upkeep of the trust. Ask for a scrapbook made by other volunteers as part of their art projects. Sundays closed. Ask for longer duration volunteering options if interested. Directions: Hampi main bazaar. From the main road leading up to the Virupaksha temple, take a right to go into the main bazaar. The trust is a few metres on the left.

They accept voluntary donations or dedicated sponsors at ₹12,000 per child, per year.

Buy

The stone carvings are made by local artists and are a good buy here. The same thing in Bangalore will cost ten times the price. The hand stitched blankets are also a good buy.

Eat

There are lots of places in Hampi Bazaar where you get satisfying and inexpensive food, though be prepared for a long wait at most places as the chefs are typically family members who prepares food to order. However, they are good at their jobs and can offer a wide range of different cuisines.

Restaurants:
  • Laughing Buddha restaurant This is on other side of river (Virupapur Gadde) and close to Shanthi guest house. There are mattress, cushions and low benches in it. So, you can just lie down and sit at ease. Continental food is very nice here with good variety. It also offers Punjabi food.
  • The Goan Corner , an idyllic cafe on the other side of the river is an experience in itself. Really really famous among the foriegner crowds, it takes a 10-15 min walk across the green paddy fields to make your way to this place.It is run by a very friendly family where the lady don, Sharmila reigns supreme.Unlike the other closely arranged cafes, Goan Corner is rather desolated and adds to the magic that Hampi creates.
  • Sagar Hotel's Idli, Dosa & Gunta Ponganalu. Just besides Gopi Guest House and right infront of the Shambhu Guest House, which are located near the Virupaksha Temple, 'Shankaramma' under a thatched roof makes delicious idlies, dosas and the tasty 'gunta pongal.' Do not miss this place. The food is not only delicious but also very cheap.
  • Mango Tree.The place has relocated from the banks of the river Tungabhadra to a shack near by .. The food is below average both in terms of taste and the size of the portions...Not worth a mention.As far as beverages go .. i had ordered a masala tea and i got a glass of it ( no cups around here ) with tea powder floating on the top... The ambiance is alright ( not what it must have been by the river ).... they play nice music... the staff is alright too.. but food should be the real hero in a restaurant and mango tree fails to deliver in that department....
  • Garden Paradise. This is behind the line of shops in Hampi Bazaar which are towards left in the direction towards Virupaksha Temple. Located by the banks of Tungabhadra river, the ambience is quite pleasant. Reasonably priced too. They offer huts as well for accomodation.
  • Mayura Bhuvaneshwari, Kamalapura. Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneshwari serves delicious buffet lunch for veg approx 100/-. If you plan your day such that you reach kamalapura around mid-day, this can be a great place for lunch. Unlimited food is served in very clean and serene surroundings. Even thought a very popular and a very clean hotel, make sure you use packaged drinking water. 100.
  • Durga Roof Top, Near Virupaksha Temple (From the bazaar when you approach Virupaksha Temple, take a right at the temple, next take a left ( as the road turns), take a right further and you will find yourself at Durga Roof Top.). Very good and authentic north Indian food and their Hello to the queen dessert is simply amazing. 
  • Tom & Jerry. Located on the east-side of the bazar-area near the boulders. Small but very comfortable rooftop-restaurant that serves delicious homecooked food in a very friendly atmosphere. 
  • Chillout Restaurant. Excellent food and very friendly staff.Try their divine Nargis Kofta.They also make decent pizza.
  • All Tribes Coffee Shop, near Funky Monkey. Great, cheap and open hangout place for travellers and backpackers. Meet nice and interesting people,get to know local people. The coffee shop serves coffee and indian tshai, cookies and other sweets. There is a fair trade shop and vegan friendly. During the day are many activities, like meditation, video screenings and camp fires. Family friendly. 
  • Prince Resturant, Hampi. Prince Restaurant is a decent place with limited varieties to offer in indian, chinese and continental cuisines at affordable rate. One must definitely try the Hotel Prince's Biryani, when you reach there. It is the second best thing in Hampi and the best biryani ever. 
  • Venkateshwara restaurant, Hampi main bazaar (Near the Mango Tree restaurant (new location)). Small place which serves up local fare (meals/thalis and dosas) at dirtcheap prices (₹50 for a thali). Recommended for those in a budget. It is well known by the locals so ask around for directions. Has only 4 tables so you may have to wait for seating. 
  • Sri Shirdi Sai Tiffin, College Rd, Hospet. 07:00-23:00. If you happen to be in Hospet( waiting for your bus/train etc.), do not miss the chance to savour the softest and tastiest Idli-wada in Karnataka. On College Rd, just look out for the most crowded eatery. ₹30 for one plate of Idli Wada (Mar 2014). 
Drink

Hampi is a religious centre so drinking alcohol is not allowed. Therefore, beer or other alcoholic drinks are generally not available at local restaurants. However, Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneshwari in the neighbouring town of Kamalapur has a bar that serves beer and wine. Ask your rickshaw driver to take you to Hospet, where you can purchase cheap booze from rowdy and definitely illegal but tolerated alcohol shops.

A few hotels like Shanti and Kishkinda, which are located across the river, do serve beer and hard liquor like whisky, vodka, rum, etc
Sleep

There are several guest house in Hampi, though staying in Hospet or the nearby town of Kamalapur are also options. Staying at Hospet gives easy accessibility to Railway Station and better Hotels. Hampi is also not very far from Hospet. There are no ATMs in Hampi, so remember to withdraw any cash beforehand from Hospet or the closer Kamalapur (4km before Hampi while coming from Hospet). Kamalapur has 3 ATMs all near to each other - State Bank of India, Axis Bank and Bank of India.

Most guest houses in Hampi are rather basic. Do not expect too much. Avoid places recommended in the Lonely Planet guide, because they immediately raise their rates and lower their quality. A lot of cheaper guest houses are situated across the river on the Hampi Island (Virupapur Gaddi), popularly known as the 'Hippie Island'.check properly the guest house near bus stand, as those are ill maintained and not properly clean
  • Lakshmi Heritage Tourist Home, Janata plat, near gopi guest house and virupaksha temple (http://maps.google.co.in/maps?hl=en&tab=wl), ☎ +91 948 171 5421. checkin: any time; checkout: 09:00. The decor, equipment, and cleanliness of the apartments is second to none. The friendliness and efficiency of the staff is first class. 300m from local bus stand. Restaurant, free parking and rooms with free Wi-Fi access. Air-conditioned guest rooms have TV with cable channels and en suite bathroom with toiletries and hot shower facilities. Select rooms have a balcony. The staff at the tour desk can assist with travel arrangements and car rental services. Laundry services are offered. ₹150.
  • Hotel Malligi, 10/90 JN Road, ☎ +91 839 422-8101, [1].  9km from ruins. Blue Mist, Temptations & Waves restaurants. Spa, pool.</sleep>
  • Kiran Guest House, Janata Plot, ☎ 09448143906 OR-08394-204159. checkin: any time; checkout: 09.00. Clean rooms with attached bathrooms. 24 hours hot water. All the rooms have solar powered lights and all have solar powered fans, which can come in handy because the regular power goes out regularly.. It is run by a family and is in a very quiet location ₹600 (email, Nov 2013). 
  • Sai Plaza, virupapura gaddi (hampi), ☎ 9448797040. checkin: 10:00; checkout: 10:00. A nice river view guest house situated just across the river. It has nice thatched-roof rooms, oriental look, and river-side location. Rooms have double beds, attached bathrooms, swing bed. Multi-cuisine restaurant, where you can relax on mattresses, listen to music while ordering ₹990. 
  • Shanthi Guest House is situated across the river Tungabhadra. After you cross the river, take a left and at the end of the lane, as you walk besides paddy fields, is the Shanthi Guest House. This is a nice place to relax, as it offers cottage-style accommodation. It is managed by Krishna and Rao. The prices are around ₹900 per room (Jan 2014). There is a restaurant on site making good pizzas and acceptable local food for similar prices to other places nearby. Their phone number is +91 839 432-5352.
  • Sree Rama Guest House is close to the main temple offers decent accommodation with private bathroom. From the bazaar, turn right just in front of the main temple and then follow the main road. The hotel also gives electronic mosquito killers for free. The Internet downstairs is one of the best in Hampi. Room charge is ₹200-250 per night (Jan 2008)
  • Sunny Guest House is situated across the river(Virupapur Gadde, Hampi). It is a nice place to stay. They have a nice garden. This place is very calm and relaxing. The prices are affordable. Their phone number is +91 853 328 7169.
  • Vicky's charges around ₹500 per room (Jan 2008) and has a mediocre rooftop restaurant. The rooms are not the cleanest and the bathroom definitely needs refurbishment. There are three computers downstairs and only the one on the left is in working condition. The other two are very slow. It used to be good until all the tourists swarmed into it under the guide of Lonely Planet.
  • Rolling Stone Homestay, Across the river. Really basic huts for ₹400 per night - based on 2 sharing a hut. Not the cleanest, constant power cuts but have a bed, mosquito net, very basic shower and western toilet plus a fan. Only stay here if you can deal with just the basics. 
  • Mowgli Guest House, Across the river, [2]. Next to Shanthi guest house and good view of river. Thatched cottages overlooking the paddy fields and river have a balcony and swing like Shanthi guest house. Priced at ₹700 for cottages without solar backup, ₹900 without (prices April 2013), however since power is restored generally at nights and the day is spent out sight-seeing, the ₹700 option is good enough. It has a nice restaurant which again provides river side view and has good Indian food. Local, cheaper food is also available nearby by taking a left from the entrance and walking a kilometre to the main road. 
  • Hema guesthouse, Across the river (Anegundi Side). checkout: 9:30am. Nice, well-maintained and clean bungalows, each with hammock. The ambience itself is pretty nice and the staff are quite welcoming. The rooms are very basic but clean and tidy. You can plan to eat here as well and the food is pretty decent. 600rs (dec 2013). 
  • Mayuram Home Stay, Janata Plat, near Gopi Guest House, ☎ (mobile) 9448801852 or (owner's residence) 08394241693. checkin: anytime; checkout: 9 am. Mayuram Home Stay is very near to the temple and offers recently refurbished clean tidy en-suite rooms with hot water, mosquito nets, and a backup generator for 24 hour electricity. A good place to stay in clean and comfortable surroundings. The owner Ravi also owns a very good travel agency nearby called ISSTA travels. Recommended. 400 to 500.
  • Rashmitha Guest House, Janata Plat, ☎ +91 839 424-1945 (owner's residence) or +91 948 164 5104 or +91 948 090 7200 (mobile). Checkout: 09:00. Recently refurbished en suite rooms with hot water, mosquito nets, and a backup generator for 24 hour electricity.
  • Shambhu Guest House, Janatha Plot (Close to Virupaksha temple), ☎ 9480386751. checkin: Any Time; checkout: 09.30. 5 double attached Bath rooms with 24 hours hot shower and electricity backup generator service and beautiful River view, and offers recently refurbished clean tidy en-suite rooms mosquito nets. ₹300-400      Boulders, Narayanapet (7 kms from Hampi), ☎ 09242641551, [3]. This is easily one of the more expensive places to stay at in Hampi located in a sprawling 100 acre odd property in Hampi, which is unspoiled by civilization (barring the accommodations). The hotel has taken a lot of trouble in trying to ensure that it blends into its local surroundings and they have done an excellent job at that. Its about a 20-30min drive to the ferry point to Hampi and rides to and from the hotel are complimentary. The hotel itself offers activities indoor and outdoor. The outdoor nature walk along the boulders is simply beautiful and their viewpoints are quite breathtaking. They also have ancient cave paintings on the property. You should also keep in mind that since the property is large, it does have wild animals that traverse in and out of the property and you could be very lucky and spot a leopard or crocodile. All in all I would recommend a stay here. rack rate 3500 per person (dec 2013).
  • Hotel Sreemata (Koppal), Hospet Road (NH 63), ☎ 08539221168, [4]. checkin: 24hrs; checkout: 24hrs. Situated in Koppal, the gateway town to Hampi - the UNESCO world heritage site; Hotel Sreemata is a modest property ideal for the business and leisure traveler. The hotel is located 1.5km away from the railway station and a short drive from Hampi ruins, which was once the capital of the Hindu empire, Vijay Nagar who ruled South India. This hotel equipped with lots of amenities and surrounded by the historic and mythological remains makes for a perfect stay. 34 elegantly furnished rooms including air-con and fan rooms and suites. ₹600. 
Get out
Tungabhadra Dam and its associated gardens are nice. It has got a nice dancing fountain too. Visiting the tungabhadra dam can be a nice filler instead of just waiting for the bus/train (typically at 22:00/23:00). Auto-rickshaw can take directly from Hampi to Tungabhadra dam base at a cost of ₹400 (Mar 2014) and then you can have the bus by paying ₹20 per person for a half hour visit to the dam. Autos are not allowed till the top of dam.

Hampi Panorama (Wikitravel)

பஞ்சவன் மாதேவிச்சரம் வரலாறு. குடவாயில் பாலசுப்ரமணியம்.


Flex board describing Panjavan Madevi History
பஞ்சவன் மாதேவிச்சரம் வரலாறு குடவாயில் பாலசுப்ரமணியம்.  குடவாயில் கட்டுரைகள் (Source: http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=1066097&page=88)

சோழப் பெருமன்னர்கள் வரிசையில் திலகமென திகழ்ந்த முதலாம் ராஜராஜனின் மனைவியே இந்த பஞ்சவன்மாதேவி.இவர் சேரர் குறுநில மன்னர்களுள் ஒருவராகிய பழுவேட்டரையரின் மகள்.திருச்சி மாவட்டம் உடையார்குடி தாலுகாவில் உள்ள பழுவுரே இவரின் ஊராகும்.பழுவூர் கோவிலில் உள்ள முதலாம் ராஜராஜனின் 27 ஆம் ஆண்டு கல்வெட்டில் இவரைப்பற்றி "அவனி கந்தர்ப்புரத்து பழுவூர் தேவனாரின்(பழுவேட்டரையரின்) திருமகள்" என்று கூறுகிறது.திருப்புகலூர் கல்வெட்டால் இத்தேவியின் மற்றொரு பெயர் "நக்கன் தில்லையழகி" என அறிய முடிகிறது.

பஞ்சவன் மாதேவி ஒரு தளிச்சேரி பெண் என்றும் ,ஆடல் கலை மற்றும் போர்த்திறனிலும் சிறந்து விளங்கியவள் என்றும். ராஜராஜன் உள்ளம் கவர்ந்த அன்பு மனைவி என்றும், ராஜராஜன் தஞ்சையில் பெரிய கோவில் எழுப்பிய பொழுது மன்னனுக்கு எல்லாமுமாக இருந்து உதவி செய்தவர் என்றும். ராஜேந்திர சோழனை தன்னுடைய சொந்த மகனாக பாவித்து வளர்த்தவர் அதலால் ராஜேந்திரனை தவிர வேறு யாரும் ஆட்சிக்கு போட்டியாக வந்துவிடக்கூடாது என்று மூலிகை மருந்து உண்டு தன்னை மலடாக்கி கொண்டவள் போன்ற பல செவிவழி செய்திகள் உண்டு.

பஞ்சவன் மாதேவி அளித்த கொடைகளும்,சாதனைகளும் பலவாகும்.நினைவு கூறத்தக்க வகையில் புகழ் மிகுந்து திகழ்ந்ததால் சோழ நாட்டில் ஓர் ஊருக்கே இவர் பெயரால் "பஞ்சவன் மாதேவி சதுர்வேதி மங்களம்" என பெயர் மாற்றம் ஏற்பட்டது.

பஞ்சவன் மாதேவிச்சரம் என்பது ராஜராஜனின் தேவி பஞ்சவன்மாதேவி மறைந்த பிறகு, ராஜராஜ சோழனின் மகனான ராஜேந்திர சோழனால் தன் சிற்றனைகாக எடுக்கப்பட்ட நினைவாலயம்.இத்திருகோவிலில் காணப்படும் ராஜேந்திர சோழனின் கல்வெட்டு இதனை "பழையாறையான முடிகொண்ட சோழபுரத்துப் பள்ளிப்படை பஞ்சவன் மாதேவிச்சரம்" என்று குறிப்பிடுகிறது. இதே கல்வெட்டில் ராஜேந்திர சோழனின் தளபதி அருண்மொழியான உத்தம சோழ பிரம்மராயன் பற்றியும், சைவ மடங்களுள் ஒன்றான லகுலிசமடம் பற்றியும் அதன் தலைவர் லகுலிச பண்டிதர் பற்றியும் பல வரலாற்று தகவலை சுமந்து நிற்கிறது.

இக்கோவில் திருச்சுற்றில் உள்ள விநாயகர்,பிச்சை தேவர்,ஆலமரச் செல்வர்,லிங்கோத்பவர், பிரம்மன்,துர்க்கை போன்ற சிற்பங்கள் ராஜேந்திர சோழனின் தனி முத்திரையாகும்.இரண்டு சிவபெருமானின் கோல நிலைகளில் பல்லவர்களின் கலைமனம் கமழ்கிறது. இவை கி.பி. 710-715 வரை ஆண்ட இரண்டாம் நந்தவர்ம பல்லவனின் காலத்தில் அவனது கோநகரான பழையாறையில் இடம் பெற்று இருந்த சிலைகளாய் இருக்கலாம்.

கருவறையின் அர்த்தமண்டபத்தில் உள்ள நந்தியும் கல்தூணும் பழுவேட்டரையர்களின் கலைப்படைபாகும்.இதே போன்ற நந்தியும் தூணும் பழுவுரிலும் காணபடுகிறது. பழுவேட்டரையரின் மகள் என்பதால் இத்தேவி பிறந்த மண்ணின் கலைமனம் கருவறையில் வீசுகிறது என்பது ஆராய்ச்சியாளர்களின் கருத்து

சோழ பெருமன்னர்களின் தலைநகராகவும்,சோழ அரச குடும்பத்தினர் இறுதிவரை வாழ்ந்த இடம் என்ற பெருமையை உடைய பழையாறை மாநகரில் ஒரு பகுதியாக திகழ்ந்த பட்டீச்சரம் எனும் சிற்றூரில் அமைந்துள்ளது இந்த பஞ்சவன் மாதேவிச்சரம். பட்டீச்சரம் தேனுபுரிச்சரர் திருகோவிலில் இருந்து அரை கி மீ துரத்தில் உள்ளது இந்த பள்ளிப்படை ஆலயம். தற்பொழுது இந்த கோவில் ராமநாதன் கோவில் என்று அழைக்கபடுகிறது.

மேற்கூரிய தகவல்கள் குடவாயில் பாலசுப்ரமணியம் ஐயாவின் குடவாயில் கட்டுரைகள் என்னும் நூலில் இருந்து எடுக்கப்பட்டது. 

Srinivasanallur – Koranganatha Temple

Monday, September 22, 2014

My Travelogue: Lakulisa Temple (Vadodara - Gujarat)

My Travelogue: Lakulisa Temple (Vadodara - Gujarat): Remember I told that Somnathpur is Hoysala in a nutshell? Well, Lakulisa is Gujarat in a nutshell. It has a sanctum sanctorum, ardha mandapa and maha mandapa. This was built in 10-11 C CE. Nothing more except sharing the exquisite sculptural marvel of the place!!! .... Lakulisa Temple is located on hill top. Vans are available are cost per head rate to take till 6km on the hill road. Further distance has to be reached on a rope-way car. From the hill top station, a short walk on the cemented pathway, a deviation to the left, leads to a pond on the right called Dudhia Talav. On its bank is the Lakulisa Temple.

Vallam – Vasanteshvaram Cave Temple

Vallam is small settlement near Chengalpattu where three rock-cut shrines are excavated in a hillock, running north to south.Cave Temples at Vallam – On the eastern face of a hill are carved three rock-cut shrines. Two caves are on same boulder one above the other cave, while the third is located little north of the previous ones. We will discuss each in detail in this article.

Swami's Thoughts and Explorations: Somnathpura Beckons Again

Swami's Thoughts and Explorations: Somnathpura Beckons Again: I visited Somnathpura Karnataka India after a long time . Again I am feeling that I should have spent more time as the art is just flowing from nook and corner. As Always I would like the gems from this great workmanship in art by my favourite Hoysala Architecture do all the talking ! The post is supplemented numerous pictures

Swami's Thoughts and Explorations: The Lakshminarayana Temple ,Hosaholalu KR Pet, Kar...

Swami's Thoughts and Explorations: The Lakshminarayana Temple ,Hosaholalu KR Pet, Kar...: A Trikuta (Having Three Sanctum Sanctorum)  Hoysala temple tucked inside the KR Pet taluk of Karnataka,the Lakshminarayana Temple at Hosaholalu. This is one of the best places to see the late Hoysala architecture in total peace without any hustle and bustle of the crowds and tourists.The atmosphere is very peaceful and helps in studying the temple and its art. Here the Central Vimana (Tower) having greatest emphasis. Built by Hoysala Ruler Veera Someswara around 1250 AD, this is one of the temples built in the southern regions of the empire during 13th Century as there was a constant fear of invasion on the northern front of the Hoysala empire and Veera Someswara was giving more attention to the politics of Tamil Land. The Main Deity is having Shankam (Conch) on right hand and Chakra (Discus) on the Left hand which is a rarity.The Original Venugopala idol in one of the sanctum was reported missing in 1935 and a new idol which is different to the original idol has been installed by the authorities. Built in 13th Century, the temple can be termed as par excellence when it comes late Hoysala architecture. The only contemporary temple which can be termed to be equal in terms of beauty and excellence is Somnathpur and Haranahalli Temple in my view. The only black spot on this Shinning Sun is the Absurd Porch added in the front during the 17th Century which has eclipsed the original entrance and the lintel. This has also resulted in blockage to the outer prakarams. One have to climb from the side to relish.

பத்ரி சேஷாத்ரி: ராணியின் படிக்கிணறு

பத்ரி சேஷாத்ரி: ராணியின் படிக்கிணறு: யுனெஸ்கோ உலகப் பாரம்பரியச் சின்னமாக இந்தியாவிலிருந்து இரண்டு இடங்கள் பரிந்துரை செய்யப்பட்டிருக்கின்றன என்ற செய்தியை இன்றைய தி ஹிந்துவில் பார்த்தேன். அதில் ஒன்று குஜராத்தில் பாடன் நகரில் இருக்கும் ‘ராணி கி வாவ்’ - ராணி (கட்டிய) படிக்கிணறு. இரண்டாவது இமாச்சலப் பிரதேசத்தின் பெரும் இமாலய தேசியப் பூங்கா. 

 ஜனவரி மாத இறுதியில் குஜராத் கலாசார யாத்திரை சென்றிருந்தபோது நாங்கள் ராணி கி வாவ் சென்றிருந்தோம். அப்போது எடுத்த சில புகைப்படங்களை ஃபேஸ்புக்கில் சேர்த்திருந்தேன். 

படிக்கிணறுகள் குஜராத், ராஜஸ்தான், ஹரியாணா, தில்லி போன்ற இடங்களில் விரவிக்கிடக்கின்றன. ஆனால் குஜராத்தில் அவை மிக முக்கியமான இடத்தை வகிக்கின்றன. நீர் இல்லாத மாநிலம் என்பதால் அப்பகுதியை ஆண்ட மன்னர்கள் நீர் நிலைகளுக்கு உரிய முக்கியத்துவத்தைக் கொடுத்து மிகச் சிறந்த கட்டுமானங்களை அவற்றைச் சுற்றி ஏற்படுத்தியிருந்தனர். 

இந்தக் குறிப்பிட்ட கட்டடமான ராணி கி வாவைக் கட்டுவித்தவர் மகாராணி உதயமதி. இவர் இந்தப் பகுதியை 12-ம் நூற்றாண்டில் ஆண்ட முதலாம் பீமதேவ சோலங்கியின் மனைவி ஆவார். பீமதேவ சோலங்கி இறந்தபின் அவருடைய நினைவாக இந்தப் படிக்கிணற்றை உதயமதி கட்டினார் என்று பின்னர் 14-ம் நூற்றாண்டில் எழுதப்பட்ட ஒரு நூல் குறிப்பிடுகிறது. இந்தக் கிணறு இருக்கும் இடத்தில் எந்தக் கல்வெட்டும் கிடைக்கவில்லை.

பத்ரி சேஷாத்ரி: மகேந்திரன் பாதை

பத்ரி சேஷாத்ரி: மகேந்திரன் பாதை: ஞாயிறு அன்று நாங்கள் 40 பேர் மகேந்திரவர்மப் பல்லவனின் சில குகைக் கோயில்களைப் பார்த்துவிட்டு வரச் சென்றோம். திட்டம் வேறாக இருந்தாலும், இறுதியில் வல்லம், தளவானூர், சிங்கவரம், மண்டகப்பட்டு, பனமலை ஆகிய ஐந்து இடங்களுக்கு மட்டுமே போக முடிந்தது. இதில் பனமலை, ராஜசிம்மனால் கட்டுவிக்கப்பட்டது. சிங்கவரம் மகேந்திரன் காலத்ததா என்பதில் சந்தேகம் உள்ளது. பிற்பட்டதாக இருக்கலாம்....